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The Jacobs Flash-A-Boo-Boo for the neat organization of a pain in the ass — Flash material in plastic bags  —  Simple , cheap parts and leftovers to keep flash material neat —  All using the same materials left over from jobs with overages or in the case of the black bases you see, my buyer went with an elevated lift instead and I had twenty of these stair plates from Home Depot.  I work in metal more so than wood — I can easily,  with two 7/16 sockets or wrenches, build, rebuild, re-design, alter, change or modify. I have eight or nine gizmos made with these parts. All 1/4 x 20 in findings and rebuildable—   Split rings, lanyard holders and wire ties, two connectors and two round screws bent open to hold the crossbar. 

The Jacobs Dryer Racks For WORM JIGS, Hard Head Flies and Streamer’s  —  

                “  I Went Nuts With Bolts On These Projects From The 1/4X20 Junk Draw !

The rotating grip screws, actually nuts on the base act as a mini-clamp, simple efficient holders, for any small objects, they are called “ Tarp Clamps" — Used during Hurricane season in Florida   .   They are popular for the outside Florida shutters found at Home Depot — 1/4 X 20 Thread  — in wood section  —  With two on a bolt facing each other, hooks or objects can be held at any angle to dry  — eyes up,  eyes down whatever.

Hints:  In between the threaded tarp nuts nuts I place two rubber coated one side washers to act as anti-slip, no scratch surfaces for delicate stuff.   If I used powder coat for the base I use the clamps for holding the eye upward, so as not to get clogged — The top shaft is offset so hooks will not drip or contact the lower deck  —  

All these parts were salvage or leftovers from other projects — About twenty-eight years work of proto-typing or projects that were disassembled — I call re-building or reconstruction   “ Johnny Five it”.   Why waste money when you have your own junkyard and Home Depot in your garage, package to prevent rust, like a good retail outlet and my favorite is ACE hardware,  their product better quality than Home Depot which is entirely made from Chinese sunken Junks.

I added Rubber base legs so as not to slide and a magnet mid stream for my work benches —  If I do something during the build , I can easily take it apart and make something else.  The other thing you might notice is all my builds are 1/4x20 screws which use a minimum of tools as the nuts and bolt heads are the same size on about everything.

The top bar uses a small mending plate to offset the rod so drips don't land on the lower rod… 

Tools need:  Two 7/16 wrench's — No power tools  — 1/4 x 20 connectors  —  

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The Jacobs Line Puller,  Hand Saving Knot Tightener — Common Sense  — 

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  • Braided lines and Fluorocarbons will slice your hands to pieces and for those that use their hands without gloves on the larger Saltwater reels as a drag shortly will find out when the blood drips on that nice white boat.   You need gloves, good ones.  Heavy or padded leather if you are a dragger.  Some fish never got the message and many have teeth. 
  • I know of have a mate who thought those kitchen kevlar anti-slice gloves would be a great idea.  So did the huge barracuda he was thinking of being brought into the boat. The gloves might protect from a slice but not a puncture.  The ER resident guy thought it was great too as it was a slow day and he practiced micro stitching him up.   I  guess a picture would be relevant and more important, but I keep gore on this site to a minimum. 
  • Another problem is tightening a spliced line.  Wet the knot ( usually spit is used ) and wrap the two sides on the two handles about three turns.  Saves fingers. 
  • Thats rubber shrink tubing on the out side so even braid doesn’t slip when pulled tight, shrink tubing is available with internal glue when heated and makes it bullet proof. 
  • When separated the two pieces will float!  
  • Tools:  PVC cutter or saw and a drill to make pilot hole for the screw eyes. Use either stainless, or marine quality with washers and a lock nut.
  • I use bathroom-kitchen clear silicon on the loop eye and nut to maintain buoyancy if it goes overboard.
  • Two feet 1/2 inch PVC,  eight caps, (Un threaded just caps)  glue for PVC,  four 1/4x20 bolt screw eyes and shrink tubing. Glue is obviously last step…
  • Another advantage when knotting is the screw eyes hold the hook when tightening a snelled hook.
  • One of the mates down at the dock just used a length of para-cord and made a nice knotted necklace instead of that little carabiner  as he works on a commercial tourist fishing bay boat and always tying lines, he thanks me every-time he sees me.  Around his neck and about six inches over his belt.  Cost about five bucks for two pair. Give one to a mate, you’ll have a friend for life and really tight knots instead of tight nuts.
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The Jacobs Line Removal And Line Rinsing Device

A line removal device thats waterproof, fast and your line can be washed on it.  It’s made from an inexpensive electrical cord reel from Amazon but sold in most big box or hardware stores in the garden or electrical department.

  • I took a simple electrical line holder from Amazon for five dollars and change.   
  • I corrected the sloppy molding by nerds and ends by trimming with a Box Cutter and Medium file  ( No cost, not for esthetics, couple sharp edges)
  • I corrected the sloppy crank with two washers and some aircraft bearing grease.( No cost and totally waterproof)  
  • I added a ten inch stainless bolt drilled through the handle part, lock washers and connected it to a Manfrotto Super Clamp from my Photo Studio.  You can use any kind of clamp you wish. Just use your imagination. 
  • Note:   I used one marine grade stainless bolt, nuts and now you can dip and dunk expensive fly lines after saltwater usage.  That is a big deal  —  And the basin in my garage is a great fly line cleaner.
  • A touch, more like a glob of aircraft  grade lubricant for airplane landing gear,  hard stick grease or similar on the track and VOILA!  As long as it’s waterproof .. You have a great line changer, storage and cleaner device and two make moving lines fast and easy.
  • A second gripper holds the reel, photos coming soon of “ CLAMBO” the reel holder.
  • A second duplicate holder mounted permanently on the opposite wall allows the fly lines to travel between the two holders shuttling the line back and forth with line dressing or “ Slick preservative “ products old at tackle stores by LOON, Rio, Scientific Anglers and Others. 
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The Jacobs Spin-A-Rooni Brass Body Shiner — 

Degree Of Difficulty:   0-.2
Cost:  .5 to .6 Cents
Parts List:  One 1/8 Rivet, One piece Shrink Tube 
Bottom Line:  Excellent Results
Errata  —  Tech Support:  24/7/365  Absolutely none whatsoever.   
Parts list — N o parts, send me a self postage envelope and I’ll send you the parts built.  Enclose a few bucks by check made out to  St. Judes for Children, a charity which I support if you are inclined to help.   

Genius’s Note  —  

  • Many lures I rebuilt had brass bodies, plus new ones not being painted  and needed polishing.  This took about two minutes to design,  build and finished ten bodies of lures in brass in about in an hour.  Clean , Polish, Repaint if needed.
  • After they’re polished I washed them, clear coated them, with Sally Hansen Top Coat worked fine or UV clear.   
  • I also used a fine wire brush for dull finishing brush and red striped some of the bodies in the groves and then clear coated after they dried.
  • I made them in many sizes from metal stock to paint lure bodies with and added a magnetic cheap drying rack made from a computer monitor base and a magnetic strip.

The Shrink Tube Keeps The Body 

On The Mandrel From Moving… 

1- Brass Polish   2- Alcohol  3- Sally Hanson Clear

3a- Or Uv Clear  3b- Or Red In Groves 



©  Copyright   01/12/2022