AL'S LURE-GEL DRYER



THREE ( 3) EASY SYSTEMS FOR COLORING LURES

🐟  Spinners, Worm Hooks, Bass, Weedless, Lead Lures, Colors And Coatings



1—  HARD GEL COATING DRYER FOR GEL POLISH  —  (D-I-Y Build)

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VARIOUS HEADS ATTACH BY MAGNETS


2—  GEL NAIL POLISH PROCESS  —   There’s a reason why GEL nail polish has become popular with the ladies, and no reason why it cannot be popular with the men for FISHING LURES.  I make a lot of lures always experimenting.  I also wanted a volume setup, no AA or AAA batteries to fart out at the best time, no small flashlights, and a rotating dryer.

GEL Nail Polish!  It's virtually indestructible, greatest  invention since the ladies invented sex, impossibly glossy, fills and shines well, and offered allover the web in retail shops and since its so strong,  unless you love Baracuda's it will last longer and dry quicker and so will your fingers.     But there are advantages, rules and tips to follow  —  and lots of colors  --

  • GEL  polishes are UV activated just like glue is or head cement —
  • Stronger ingredients that grasp the surface  better than  traditional Lacquers and Acrylics  —   
  • And are strong enough to stand up to daily fishing wear and tear without chipping. 
  • GEL polishes are more flexible, 
  • GELS are cured under a UV or LED lamp and acrylic or lacquer polishes cure in oxygen  —   
  • Thus, less drying time  —  My drying is automated  —  And rotates for consistency  — 
  • Gels can be removed by soaking in acetone for at least ten minutes, while powder coats are more difficult. 
    So if you hate  what the spoon, blade or hook  looked like it can be cleaned and try again.
  • USUAL WARNING  —  Do not stare at this powerful light your eye exposure to the UV lamp.  


GEL Basic Instructions:  Step By Step  —  

  1. On Bass Lead Worm Hooks or any lead weight on hooks, first I remove any roughies or casting  marks not needed with a stiff nail file or sandpaper on a stick  --
  2. I polish( just smooth) the lead part of the jig with a Dremel and wire brush, 
  3. Then I wipe the jig with electronic isopropyl alcohol, not rubbing alcohol or acetone.  Prepping is important to secure a good finish and strong adherence.  
  4. Two choices for a base coat, I can use a heat shrink hot gun on the lead and  and dip it into Powder coat White as a base coat.  Harbor Freight has a bulk size bottle for 7.00.  Thats the best price going. And thats a great base for the UV and really brights the colors or sparkles.  Read on, I do not use colors.
  5. The alternative is to use a UV actuated Base and Top Coat.  Clean and simple to prep for the nail polish 
  6. I made a series of racks from left over junk  to facilitate it letting them dry to keep wet stuff separated — 
  7. I paint the dried powder coat or base  with the color of the head. White makes the top coat color like magic really stand out.  So does a white base coat of the gel.  When all done I use a UV top coat  —  
  8. Place in machine for three minutes usually four or eight at a time.


SIDEBAR AND SURVIVAL OPINION  — 
Powder coating is great but for some not so great for me.  I would like to have the powder coating in all colors and would go into it whole hog, if I were younger and was not living in a condo in a high rise on the top floor and we have a nice breeze here, not good for powder coating  anything.  

With my allergies, mass powder coating, and a bevy of potential clumsy spills would result in a death penalty by frying pan by the little lady.   So doing it in the house is out of the question also for health reasons. 

  • I only use white, as a base coat, I pick up at Harbor Freight — 
  • I do not need mixers, fluid drive nor volcano stirrers  —  
  • I don’t do hubcaps or engine parts.   
  • Plan A failed — The first time I realized the powder is so fine a severe sneeze coated my whole desk and guess who noticed it.  My Plan B was to do it in the garage. 
  • My garage is not air-conditioned and can hit 112-116 degrees on a hot day, thats 96-97 degrees and 80% humidity,  so thats out.  
  • SIDEBAR — So humid we don’t have to shower,  we just walk briskly around  the condo complex, dodging  the eyesight, physically, mentally,  loco impaired golfers here and towel off .   Powder does not like humidity, gets lumpy.  The humidity makes me lumpy. So do errant golf balls, they are so bad we have them yell nine, FOUR was not strong enough.
  • With the prep and polish, as explained I simply do a base coat in powder or acrylic white base when needed, and if it’s cool enough in the garage at midnight.   About twenty to thirty hooks , jigs, weighted baits all go into white base and put that gear away.  Stacked in white on my racks  —  
  • When the weather conditions exist.  I have enough lures, over 400+ on the shelves.  And 50-60 already base coated ready for GEL color or cheapies with Acrylics and a UV top coat.
  • With no spillage since I only do white, I can get away within the garage if cooler.   With 50-60 base coated I can create anything in minutes upstairs in the AC.  
  • With all the kinds of lures I make for charitable occasions and my personal enjoyment.  I gotta laugh sometimes.  Powder coating is fun, easy to learn but  heat guns and blow MAPP torches are really not for everyone.
  • A mess,  the advantage of one powder, no pouring or salvage and not pouring things back and forth as seen of many of the Youtube is hilarious.  Do-It-Yourself fluid sites would  get me a frying pan over the head.  Almost every one of those guys got powder all over the place.  Our white carpets would not appreciate the powder in colors.  I keep my only the white powder in a Mason jar. Seals, airtight and glass.
  • Years ago, driving home late at night I stopped in a McDonalds got a burger, fries,  and a large Orange drink.    I arrived home and with hands full,  forgot the drink in the cup holder nestled in the console.  I was not aware their cups are disposable cups and mine dissolved over night, and by the next day the orange leaked all over the console and front carpeting of the car —  
    Note— Other names for orange dyes  —  Clean spills fast!
    • Orange I, 4-[(4-Hydroxy-1-Naphthalenyl)
    • Azo]Benzenesulfonic Acid
    • Monosodium Salt Sodium 
    • 4-[(4-Hydroxy-1-Naphthalenyl)
    • Azo]Benzenesulfonate

🥵   It Was Her New Car.  The detail shop could not get it out. Cost me 120 dollars to have the console removed, the seats removed, carpets removed and re-dyed.   So if powder in colors got into my white carpet and Stanley Steamer cooked it with hot water,  I would be history.  Death by Lodge Frying Pan with no medals rewarded and just not worth the risk for me.

🥰  My Opinion:  Powder Coating is great and simple if your domain and disciplines support it with a good working area.  I do not have that luxury.  Instead wife is happy since she has all these fine colors and selection to choose from and a new nail dryer to replace the one I took.



3—  The Alternative and Base Coat Process  — 

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The 6 Steps to Powder Coating  —  Powder coating is stronger than solvent-based paint coatings, takes very little training or practice, and the cost is very competitive to paints.  For the do-it-yourselfer, a tougher coating with improved corrosion protection is easily achieved.   I only use powder coating in white, with nothing more than a pair of vice grips, a heat gun, couple tooth picks, shrink tubing to cover the eye, and one of my racks.    Then I use the nail polish technique to create some obscene lures.  


Advantages —  

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  • Use Powder Paints because:  no smelly fumes, no messy clean up ?,  no drying time, non-flammable, one coat coverage, 74 colors to choose from works on all use powder paints on all your:  jigs, spinnerbaits, buzz baits, blades, spoons and more …

Process  —  

  1. Cleaning  —  Wire brushing,  abrasive flaw removal and chemical cleaning is required to ensure the jig part is free of any dirt, rust, oil etc.
  2. I use a Dremel tool with the larger brush head to clean toughies.  It evens the finish, I blow it off with my compressor or air can.  Next any gouges or rough spots will show, sometimes one can add a texture to the surface to hide them. The powder will fill many spots.
  3. Pre treatment  — after you clean and prep your piece  to ensure there’s no oil, wax, or any other residue on the areas to be powder coated.  a pre-treatment is applied to the component, this further protects it and also improves the surface ready for the powder to be applied.  
  4.  A good  pre-treatment is paint-prep or similar.  Make sure lure is dry.   
  5. A good tip is to preheat the piece to about 100° with your heat gun, pause. cool.  
  6. Take a piece of 1/8 inch shrink tubing and place it over the eye so when you heat it,  it prevents powder from clogging the eye of the hook
  7. Using the pliers — Hold object over the heat gun till it’s hot enough  ( twenty seconds)  and dip quickly into the powder and remove.   Hold the eye side up so any residual does not clog the eye of the hook if you forgot the heat shrink.  This is a great trick.
  8. Rinse and dry  — water works fine
  9. Cure  —  To cure the coat you will need a toaster oven never again used for food.  I do not mix food or fishing lures.
  10. Cheap toaster oven at Wal-Mart or Amazon  —   the powder in a toaster oven for around 20 minutes  —  Most of the descriptions for doing this say simply to heat the lures to 325 in the oven after you dipped them (kind of swished the lure)  into the container the powder coat paint comes in.  I wholly recommend a Mason jar and mine has an epoxied metal plate on the bottom for my magnetic table tops.  No spills. touch the weight while hot and you will find out why I take precautions.
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Jann’s Netcraft Powder Coating  — Supplies  — Tips  and Usage

Powder Painting Fishing Lures  —  Powder paint was developed primarily to paint jig heads but it can be used to paint many other types of metal fishing lures. Powder paint is a dry powder made up of fine particles of thermoplastic. After curing with heat, it becomes a shiny durable finish tougher than most solvent based paints.

Basic Powder Paint Instructions  —  Shake well before using. Shaking breaks up the lumps that may have formed during storage. Always store in a cool dry area. Oven thermostats vary. Some experimentation may be needed to find the setting that works best for you. Humidity can get in your way— 

All metal parts must be preheated prior to applying powder paint. Use pliers or forceps to hold parts while heating and when dipping into powder paint. If painting individual fishing lure components, use a lighter or torch for heat. If many parts are to be painted, place parts in a pie pan and heat in an oven to 400 degrees. Dip fishing lure components into powder paint and immediately knock off excess by tapping pliers on the lip of the jar.   Parts are the correct temperature when the paint melts within 2 or 3 seconds. Clean hook eye before curing.

Curing Powder Paint  —  Lures finished with our powder paint can be fished without curing. For the toughest finish available, our powder paint must be cured. Curing is easily done by hanging parts in an oven heated to 350 degrees for 15 minutes. If you forgot to clean the hook eye before curing, it can be cleaned by using a hot hook point.

Lure Eyes  —  Lure eyes can be added by applying our stick on eyes or painting on eyes using vinyl lure and jig finish.

Special Effects  —  Layer different colors of powder paint in a jar. Dip your lure into the powder paint, passing through the different colors. It will leave a swirled finish on your lure.

Paint Spinner Blades and Spoons with Powder Paint  —  Grip the spinner blade at hole with pliers or forceps (locking forceps work best) to maximize powder paint coverage. Heat the entire spinner blade just long enough to get the powder paint to stick. Forceps act as a heat sink, so heat the tips of your forceps as you heat the blade. 

Dip the blade into the powder paint and stir a little bit to make sure the blade is coated all over. Tap forceps on lip of bottle to help remove excess powder paint. At this point, the blade should have a smooth dull coat of powder paint. Brush off any excess that may be left on the blade. Hang in oven heated to 350 degrees for 15 minutes. Paint will become shiny and harden to a chip proof finish.

Clear Finish on Spinner Blades and Spoons  —  Use clear powder paint on brass and copper blades and spoons to eliminate corrosion. Far superior to clear lacquer, powder paint does not chip along the edges. Clear powder paint allows you to paint on a nickel spinner blade. After clear finishing with powder paint, your vinyl paint will now stick to a nickel plated spinner blade. You can two-tone, stripe, or dot any spinner blade.

Fluid Beds  —  A fluid bed gently mixes air into your powder paint eliminating the need to stir the paint to keep it from packing together. This gives you complete control of coating thickness. Jig eyes usually stay open and blade actions aren't affected.Trouble Shooting, Powder Paint Tips —  Powder Paint sticks to head but remains a dull color - Head is too cool. Continue to heat the heat until the paint becomes shiny.

Paint immediately turns shiny and begins to bubble - Head is too hot. Reduce the amount of time you are heating the parts.
For best results, use an optional white base coat of white powder paint when using light and fluorescent colors.



Going Commercial  —  Really?

  • This may work just fine for jig heads.  What all this means, simple rules,  is that you probably shouldn’t use an oven that is used for cooking,  dead people with lung disease do not appreciate your fine lure work.  
  • Watch all the techniques on the web under building your own fluid machine especially if you contemplate making a lot of lures.  Take the best suggestions from each one of the dozen entrepreneurs.  
  • Too much air pressure and you and the room you are in might be colored orange or green and with you sleeping in the dog house out doors.  Remember:  More is not less, it’s more of a mess if you get what is called a volcano.   A good shop vac is a necessity.   Being careful and avoid a mess.
  • Finally it was suggested that using a fluid bed would result in a better coating on your lures.  If you are into production.
  • Two Solutions:   Purchase a cheap $20 toaster oven., at Wal-Mart,  You won’t use it for anything else.  Thats simple!
  • Buy or build a fluid bed at least 3” in diameter.  Instructions here  —   Jann's Netcraft has them in stock with about any colors of paint  you might need.  Another source is Eastwood.  Do-It Yourself on eBay or Google if you don’t mind the mess if you screw up.  And the look you will get from your other half.  


On A Budget,  Save a Lot Using L.A.-NAIL POLISH From Dollar Tree Stores —

  • Theses are conventional acrylic nail lacquers  so the technique for use is different but it works  —  
  • All the colors they have,  are only one dollar for almost a one half oz bottle. 
  • For ten bucks you are in business. they have a great selection — 
  • Clean and polish the lead head with the wire brush on a Dremel — 
  • Wipe with Isopropyl alcohol 93%+, not rubbing alcohol  —  
  • Use a clear base coat and let dry, this is not UV, this is sun or a lamp works to dry, only the GEL type requires UV.
  • After the base clear coat drys use your immagination and paint 
  • Sometimes I have some pre-powder coated weight hooks in white only,  I apply the color  — 
  • Let dry and give a second coat if needed  —  or two tone  --
  • Let dry and a third coat is possible  —  if needed  — 
  • Finish with a coat of clear   —  
  • There are about thirty or more colors to choose from —  At our store close by it was a wall of color.   And you will find chenilles, fabric suitable for dubbing projects, feather boas and thread, glues and glitter, nothing over a dollar  —   CHEAP AND WORTH DROPPING BY  —  
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10/21/2021   aljacobsladder.com